COGOLIN, the town just south of Grimaud, is remarkable for its combination of tourism with traditional craft manufacturing – reeds for wind instruments, pipes for smoking, wrought-iron furniture, silk yarn and knotted wool carpets. These are all serious businesses for the one-off, made-to-order, high-quality and high-cost Côte d'Azur market. As a consequence Cogolin is fairly animated all year round.Visits to some of the craft factories can be arranged and are free. The helpful tourist office on place de la République (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–12.30pm & 2.30–7pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; Sept–June Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2.30–6.30pm, Sat 9am–noon; tel 04.94.55.01.10, www.cogolin-provence.com) will provide you with a complete list of addresses and times, and help with making appointments. Or you can just wander down avenue Georges-Clemenceau and pop into the retail outlets. Pipes made from briar wood are on show in Courrieu, at no. 58; the Manufacture de Tapis, just off the avenue on boulevard Louis-Blanc, recreates designs by famous artists such as Léger and Mondrian (exhibition room open Mon–Fri 9am–noon & 2–6pm); and world-famous musicians get their reeds from Rigotti, on rue Barbusse. From place Bellevue, at the top of the town away from the bustling centre, you can see across the St-Tropez peninsula, to Gassin, Ramatuelle and St-Tropez itself. Having taken in that view and seen enough of Cogolin's manufacturing businesses, the one thing left to do is try the local wines: the Cave des Vignerons is on rue Marceau, just before the junction with the N98 heading westwards (closed Sun out of season). There are a couple of reasonably inexpensive hotels in Cogolin that make viable bases for trips into congested St-Tropez: the amiable, comfortable Coq Hôtel, place de la Mairie (tel 04.94.54.13.71, fax 04.94.54.03.06; €55–70); and the Clemenceau, next door at 1 rue Carnot (tel 04.94.54.15.17, fax 04.94.54.42.78; €40–55).
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